Journal/RV Awning Care: 6 Lessons I Learned the Expensive Way

RV Awning Care: 6 Lessons I Learned the Expensive Way

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RV Awning Care: 6 Lessons I Learned the Expensive Way

Let me tell you about the time our awning tried to become a kite.

We were set up at a campground in eastern Colorado, flat, open, beautiful in that big-sky kind of way. We'd extended the awning to full width, staked it down (or so we thought), and headed out for a short afternoon hike. When we came back, one arm was bent at an angle awnings are not supposed to bend at, the fabric had a two-foot tear, and our neighbor was standing there looking sympathetic in the way people do when they watched the whole thing happen but couldn't do anything about it.

That repair cost us over $600. And it was entirely preventable.

Since that expensive afternoon, I've gotten a lot more serious about awning care. Here are six things I wish someone had told me before that wind gust rewrote our trip budget.

1. Wind Is Not Your Awning's Friend, Even When It Feels Gentle

This is the big one. Most awning damage comes from wind, and it doesn't take a storm. A steady 15 mph breeze with gusts to 25 is enough to cause problems, especially if you're not there to react. My rule now is simple: if I'm leaving the campsite for more than twenty minutes, the awning comes in. Period.

Wind rule of thumb: If the flag at the campground office is fully extended, your awning should be retracted. Don't gamble on "it'll probably be fine."

Even when you're sitting right there, pay attention. Wind direction can shift fast, especially in mountain valleys and near large bodies of water. I've gone from calm to chaotic in under ten minutes more than once.

2. Tilt It, Always

When you extend your awning, one side should be slightly lower than the other. This creates a slope so rainwater runs off instead of pooling. A puddle of water in the center of your awning fabric gets heavy incredibly fast. We're talking 8 pounds per gallon, and it doesn't take many gallons to rip the fabric or bend the arms.

Most RV awnings let you adjust the arms independently. Lower one side by about 6 inches and you've got a built-in rain gutter. It takes thirty seconds and can save you hundreds in damage.

3. Clean It Before You Store It

At the end of a trip, it's tempting to just roll the awning up and hit the road. But storing it dirty and damp is how you get mold, mildew, and that funky smell that greets you on the next trip.

My cleaning routine takes about fifteen minutes:

Rv awning care lessons: practical guide overview
Rv awning care lessons
  1. Extend the awning fully.
  2. Hose it down with plain water to knock off loose dirt, pollen, and bird gifts.
  3. Mix a bucket of warm water with a few drops of dish soap (nothing harsh, no bleach).
  4. Scrub gently with a soft-bristle brush. Work in sections.
  5. Rinse thoroughly and let it dry completely before retracting.
Drying shortcut: If you're in a rush, retract the awning loosely (not fully tight) and extend it again when you reach your next stop to air it out. Just don't leave it rolled up damp for more than a day.

4. Inspect the Hardware Every Season

Fabric gets all the attention, but the arms, springs, and mounting brackets do the real work. At the start of each camping season, I spend ten minutes checking for loose bolts, rust spots, and arms that don't extend smoothly. A can of white lithium grease on the moving joints keeps everything operating the way it should.

Pay special attention to where the awning mounts to the RV wall. Those bolts take a lot of stress, and if the sealant around them has cracked, water can get behind the wall. A tube of lap sealant is a few dollars. Water damage repair is a lot more than that.

RV parked at a scenic campground with awning deployed

5. Use a De-Flapper Kit

If you've ever driven with your awning making that horrible flapping sound, you know what I'm talking about. Those kits with the hook-and-loop straps that keep the fabric snug against the roller tube during travel are cheap, easy to install, and they prevent the fabric from getting beaten up by wind on the highway. Ours cost about $15 and took five minutes to put on.

6. Know When to Call a Pro

Small tears can be patched with awning repair tape, I keep a roll in our toolbox at all times. But if the fabric is sagging, the spring tension is off, or an arm is bent, that's pro territory. Trying to re-tension an awning spring without the right tools is genuinely dangerous (those springs store a lot of energy), and a bent arm will only get worse.

A professional awning service typically runs $100-200 for adjustments and re-tensioning. Compare that to $600+ for a full replacement, and the math does itself.

Keep in your RV toolbox: Awning repair tape, white lithium grease, a tube of lap sealant, and de-flapper straps. Total cost under $40, and you'll use all of it.

Our awning has survived three full seasons since the Colorado incident without a single issue. The difference isn't luck, it's just paying attention to something that's easy to ignore until it's too late. Take care of your awning and it'll take care of your shade, your rainy-day hangout spot, and your trip budget.

Published by the My Camper Friend editorial team. Published July 29, 2026.

Editorial responsibility: see Imprint.

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