How to Hook Up Your RV at a Campground (Step by Step)

Our first campground hookup took 45 minutes and involved my husband crawling under the RV with a flashlight while I Googled "why is water spraying everywhere." It shouldn't have been that hard, and it won't be for you. This guide walks through every connection, step by step, with the mistakes we made so you don't have to.

Step 1: Level and Stabilize

Before connecting anything, get your RV level. Drive onto leveling blocks on the low side, check with a bubble level (or the level app on your phone), and deploy your stabilizer jacks. A level RV means your fridge works properly, your doors don't swing, and water drains correctly. Chock your wheels once you're positioned.

Step 2: Electric Hookup

This is usually the first thing to connect because it powers everything else. Your campsite will have either a 30-amp or 50-amp outlet, and sometimes both plus a standard 20-amp household outlet.

30-amp is the standard for most Class B and Class C RVs and smaller travel trailers. The plug has three prongs and is round. 50-amp is for larger Class A rigs and fifth wheels. The plug has four prongs. If your RV has a 30-amp plug and the site only has 50-amp, you'll need an adapter (called a "dogbone" adapter, about $20).

How to connect:

1. Turn off your RV's main breaker
2. Plug your power cord into your RV first
3. Then plug the other end into the campground pedestal
4. Turn on the campground breaker
5. Turn on your RV's main breaker

Step 3: Water Hookup

The water hookup is a standard garden hose spigot at your campsite. But don't use a regular garden hose because they contain lead and chemicals that aren't safe for drinking water.

How to connect:

1. Attach your water pressure regulator to the campground spigot
2. Connect your drinking water hose to the regulator
3. Connect the other end to your RV's city water inlet
4. Turn on the water slowly
5. Check all connections for leaks

The water pressure regulator is essential. Campground water pressure can spike to 80-100 PSI, which will blow your RV's water lines. The regulator keeps it at a safe 40-50 PSI. They cost $10-15 and save you from expensive plumbing disasters.

Step 4: Sewer Hookup

The part nobody wants to talk about, but everybody needs to know. If your site has a sewer connection, you're in luck because you won't need to make dump station runs.

How to connect:

1. Put on disposable gloves
2. Connect your sewer hose to your RV's waste outlet
3. Run the hose downhill to the sewer inlet (gravity is your friend)
4. Secure the hose in the sewer inlet using a donut adapter or weight
5. Keep your black tank valve CLOSED until it's at least 2/3 full

This last point is important. If you leave the black tank valve open, liquids drain out but solids stay behind and dry into a concrete-like mass called a "poop pyramid." Close the valve, let the tank fill, and then dump. The rush of water helps flush everything out.

Dump order matters: Always dump the black tank (toilet waste) first, then the gray tank (shower/sink water). The gray water rinses the sewer hose, leaving it cleaner for storage.

Step 5: Slide-Outs and Awning

If your RV has slide-outs, extend them after you're level and parked but before you start organizing inside. Check that nothing is in the way outside. Then deploy your awning for shade. Most awnings are either manual crank or electric. If it's windy (sustained winds over 15 mph), leave the awning retracted.

Departure Day Checklist

Pin this checklist to your dashboard. A 2-minute walkthrough prevents the kind of mistakes that ruin mornings, like driving away with the sewer hose still connected. Don't ask me how I know.